🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.